Monday, May 16, 2011

Bathsheba, or magic

On our second full day, we crossed the island to the Atlantic side.  It's well known for "breathtaking views" and surfing.
Because we rented a car, we took off thinking my quick look at google maps and writing down the major streets to take that we would have no problem getting there.
WRONG.  We found after stopping twice for directions (an hour later) that we had barely made it 5 minutes from the cottage.  It turns out that people rely less on street signs - there are few, even in the urban areas - than general "right at the shell", and when in the country, "left when you see the wall" directions.
We found ourselves at a side of the road makeshift fish shack where I got out to ask the lady cooking if she could tell us how to get to Bathsheba (this is after asking a police woman and a gas attendant).  The general response was "you are so far from there!!!"  Thanks.
But, truly, these people were incredibly nice.  Out of the ordinary nice.
Later on, at the fish shack, a couple of men from the television station across the road came to get their lunch.  By then we had at least 5 men all huddled around our map trying to decide how to get us to our destination.  Finally, the two business men decided they would lead the way.  I was amazed that they would actually do this for us, and offered to buy them lunch for their trouble.  They would not allow it even after much protesting.  These guys ended up going what probably totaled an hour out of their way, on their lunch break at that.  Thank you, James and Wayne!
I ended up with my first fried fish sandwich with pepper sauce from the stop as well.  Very good.
Upon arrival in beautiful Bathsheba, we were greeted by a group of green monkeys running across the road.  Hilariously, because I had only seen small animals with long tails out of the corner of my eye, I thought they were tiny kangaroos - I swear I didn't buy anything from they guys in the gap!!!!  We thought that was pretty funny.
We pulled up to one of the few lodging/food establishments on the beach - also known as "the soup bowl" by surfers - had a beer and I had one scoop of coconut and one scoop of rum raisin ice cream in a pink cone - YUM!
We then went down the steep steps to the water where although the ocean is too rough for swimming without a surfboard, there are many tidal pools which provide enough protection for swimming and wading.
Alex walked along the beach as I asked a woman with her child if I could join her in the tidal pool (they were quite small).  We hit it off immediately.  She is a criminal barrister (attorney) in London and also the sister of the late prime minister who had died late last year of pancreatic cancer.  The country was traumatized by his death.  I kept thinking how strange it was that we were meeting so many incredibly kind and "important" people in Barbados.
She left the beach for the day while I was off perusing the rest of the incredible beach (deeper tidal pools adjacent to roaring waves and giant mossy rocks).  I was too far off to say goodbye, but she told Alex she thought I was a really neat person, and I have a girl crush on her too!
I convinced Alex to let us stay a little longer despite our concerns about how to get home, especially if it became dark.  We left just in time for a gorgeous drive home south along the coast.  This time I took the if we hug the coast, we can't get lost approach, and it worked.

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